in defense of Saigon

River view in Saigon

Like so many travelers daydreaming about their eventual visit to Vietnam, one place has captivated my interest more than any other: Hanoi. The "grand old dame of the Orient," as it's known, is touted among travelers and guidebooks to be one of the most exotic, atmospheric, and graceful cities in Southeast Asia. It's charming French-colonial architecture, bustling streets and exquisite cuisine make up the Vietnam so oft idealized. In short, Hanoi has long been on my mind.

Unfortunately, in January, Hanoi is also cold. Not bone chilling, granted, but departing from snowy Sapporo, we were not eager to don our jackets nor to tote them around for the remainder of our travels. So, with heavy hearts, we decided to postpone our visit to Hanoi. Instead, our chosen port of arrival was Hanoi's bigger, messier, and generally less-loved sister to the south, Saigon.

Rooftops from our apartment in Saigon

We were fortunate to have acquaintances, our old neighbor in Portland and his Vietnamese wife, willing to host us during our time in Saigon. I admit that it is perhaps because of this connection that we were able to so thoroughly enjoy the city. However, I would like to briefly make a case in defense of Saigon...

Let me start by saying that Saigon is not charming. It is a huge city, and a sprawling one. It is thronged with people, it is unrelentingly noisy, it is unquestionably hot, humid and dirty. It is a place where your life feels vaguely in peril just by setting foot in the streets. But. It is alive like no other place I have ever seen. While something similar can be said of much of Vietnam, Saigon is truly a place unto itself. It is a seething, breathing, living thing - teeming with massive herds of motos, luscious foliage, exotic smells, designer boutiques and vigorous street hawkers, flashing lights and ear-splitting music, visible history and stunning architecture, packed cafes, vibrant colors, calf-deep puddles, rickety ferries, bizarre fruits, and an overabundance of pho, baguette, and every kind of leafy green and grilled animal you could ever imagine. Saigon is pure chaos in all its glory. It is not for the faint of heart. But if you can survive the initial shell-shock (not to mention your first attempt at crossing the street), you will be rewarded with a richness, a vibrancy, a livelihood and an authenticity that rivals anything anywhere else in Asia. It is entirely worth seeing, and however sadistic, a place I will most definitely return to.

Top: a pho joint in Saigon, Center and bottom: Saigon motos