28 September, 2009

Rebun and Rishiri Islands [a story about seafood]




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Silver Week on Rebun and Rishiri was delightful, save for near aquatic overdose.

Below is a partial catalogue of things we ate:
assorted seaweed
assorted roe
assorted fish sashimi
surfclams
scallops [raw]
scallops [boiled in milk]
monkfish liver
flounder fin [raw]
shrimp [raw]
octopus [raw]
tuna belly [raw]
squid [raw]
horse mackerel [raw]
abalone [steamed in sake]
hairy crab
crab custard
sea urchin egg sacks [raw]
soup of sea urchin egg sacks
omelet of sea urchin egg sacks
custard of sea urchin egg sacks



17 September, 2009

small angles, an abundance of plaid

yet another reason why i love japan.

[photo courtesy of nat andreini]

13 September, 2009

the snack, perfected

it's already apparent that everything in japan is impeccably designed. no detail goes unfinished and every object, from the waffle iron to the toilet, embodies simplicity, elegance, and supreme functionality. apparently this sensibility derives from the principles of zen buddhism, but that is a rather complex topic for more reading and another day. my present focus is how the japanese have applied this unique sensibility to the snack food.

onigiri. it's deceptively simple. a triangle-shaped ball of steamed rice, usually wrapped in nori [seaweed], the size of your fist. at it's center, a small morsel of goodness, perhaps taking the form of minced pork, salmon roe, or pickled plum. onigiri can be bought freshly made at the supermarket or pre-made at any convenience store on virtually any street corner in japan.

as a snack, it's an ideal combination of starchy but not dry, salty but not thirst-inducing, satisfying without being filling...all wrapped into a flawless package. each onigiri is nestled in two layers of cellophane: an outer layer to protect it from the elements of the store shelf, and a second, slipped between the rice and nori to keep the rice white and the nori crisp. as with all things japanese, there is a pre-determined method for opening. the entire package, including the inner layer of cello, can be unwrapped and ready to eat by pulling lightly, in sequence, in three numbered locations.

for a person who is typically either spilling, dropping or breaking whatever she holds, the perfect unwrapping of an onigiri can impart a real sense of satisfaction - as if you've tried all your life to draw a perfect circle and now, suddenly, you can.


07 September, 2009

jigoku matsuri

last saturday, we hopped on the train for an hour's ride to noboribetsu onsen, home of the famous jigoku matsuri [hell festival]. there we hiked through "hell valley" - a desolate landscape of red and white rock nestled among the mountains, replete with sulfurous rivers and steam rising from hot pits. after an hours walk through the forest, we arrived at the ashiyu, a cascading stream of hot mineral water, where we soaked our feet.


as we arrived back in noboribetsu town, the festivities were ramping up. the streets were crowded with food stalls serving all manner of treats on sticks - grilled corn, whole fried ribbon-cut potatoes, fresh squid and octopus, and chocolate covered bananas - as well as dumplings, yakisoba noodles, and okonomiyake [savory cabbage pancakes]. food heaven! we opted for two beers and two bowls of crab nabe, a hot stew of potato, crab legs, corn, and scallions in a miso broth. surprisingly, chopsticks are the perfect tool for fishing crab meat out of its shell!


shortly after, we were called out to the street by the sound of taiko drumming. there the entire village, buoyed by a throng of tourists, gathered to watch as the oni mikoshi [portable shrines containing demons] were paraded through the streets. these demons are said to be the keepers of the hot springs in the valley, released during the jigoku matsuri for a night of celebration. following the ceremony and a taiko performance by drummers from far-reaching japanese prefectures, the oni odori commenced - villagers dressed as geisha, samurai, butoh dancers, animé, french maids, pumpkins, sea algae, the evil eye and more, danced in traditional procession through the streets. we donned our paper demon masks and joined them until the last train left for sapporo.